“The fact is that, since it’s not regulated, we don’t know what’s exactly in braiding hair,” says Los Angeles-based dermatologist Zoë Indigo Smith, MD. “But what we do know is that one of the possible causes of scalp irritation is the coating.” Smith notes that when the hair is heated, that coating can also release other chemical compounds, which could be cause for additional concern.
What are some possible risks of wearing synthetic braiding hair?
The main point of concern people experience with synthetic hair is the scalp irritation—and that irritation’s side effects—it can cause. Dr. Smith says that an allergic reaction (and the resulting inflammation) caused by any of the synthetic braiding hair’s ingredients could lead to additional side effects, most notably hair loss. “Your hair is like grass, and if the soil is not right and it’s not getting the nutrients it needs because of inflammation, then that grass is going to bounce,” says Dr. Smith. The grass, in this case, could be your hair: Dr. Smith says that irritation, if left unchecked, could contribute to a form of alopecia.
People have also speculated that synthetic braiding hair could be linked to cancer due to the use of vinyl chloride in the chemical coating of the hair. One study shows that toxic VOCs (volatile organic compounds) are emitted when synthetic hair is singed or heated at temperatures of 250°C and above. Inhaling these VOCs could theoretically create elevated health risks for both the braider and the braidee, though more research needs to be done for any risks of this magnitude to be stated definitively.
How to properly clean synthetic braiding before installing
Properly cleansing your braiding hair is the best way to prevent scalp irritation when using synthetic hair. All you need is an apple cider vinegar rinse, which Chicago-based hair stylist Brenda Johnson (no relation to Cynthia) says is a mixture that’s two-thirds water and one-third ACV. You’ll want to mix this up in a large bin or sink that’s big enough for all your hair to fit in, then soak the synthetic braiding hair in the rinse for up to an hour.
This works better than using other cleansing products, like shampoo, because raw ACV (even when diluted with water) is an acetic acid, which can neutralize the alkaline properties the hair has due to the chemical coating, making it more compatible with your scalp’s natural pH. “The coating on braiding hair, like Kanekelon hair, has a high pH,” Cynthia, the cosmetic chemist, explains. Apple cider vinegar brings the pH of synthetic hair (usually between 9 and 11 after it’s been processed) down to the range of natural human hair and skin (between 4.5 and 5.5).