In the US, sunscreen is classified as a drug, and because of that, its formulations (and the chemicals in them) must go through long, meticulous drug approval processes with the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA). These processes typically result in ingredient limitations, which is why “there hasn’t been a new [chemical or mineral] approved for use in sunscreens in the US since 1999,” says Ko.
In Japan, “sunscreens are treated as cosmetics,” says Dr. Mori. “Wearing sunscreen daily in the form of moisturizer, BB cream, or standalone, is very much a typical part of a daily skin-care routine for most women.” That explains why I saw so many different variations of sunscreen (lotions, serums, facial mists, sticks, and lip balms) while I was shopping in Japan.
I grew particularly fond of the recently updated Shiseido Future Solution LX Day SPF 30 for its rich (but not thick) texture, incredible hydrating (and protecting) abilities, and the gorgeous sheen it gives skin post-application. (Its formula base, which includes antioxidant-rich green tea and vitamin C, collagen-building cherry blossom leaf extract, healing enmei herb— known for its health benefits in Japan—and skingenecell 1P, which is a proprietary amino acid that helps strengthen the skin barrier.) It also blends in easily and without cast, which, again, really does fit the “cosmetically elegant” label.
Along with Shiseido’s new day cream, I also stocked up on a few more sunscreen staples while I was in Japan. I can’t tell you how many tubes of sunscreen I bought—no seriously, I have no idea. I blacked out at one point during a two-hour excursion to discount store Don Quijote and bought approximately 62,535 tubes of chemical sunscreen, like the Best of Beauty-winning Shiseido Urban Environment Vita-Clear Sunscreen SPF 42 and the Bioré UV Aqua Rich Sunscreen SPF 50.
I’m also loving the silky, lightweight Anessa Perfect UV Skincare Milk SPF50+, gel-based Nivea UV Deep Protect & Care Gel SPF 50+ PA++++, and brightening Rohto Mentholatum Skin Aqua Super Moisture UV Mist SPF 50+ PA++++, which, sadly, aren’t readily available in the US.
Since my trip, I’ve been extra generous with my sunscreen application and have also incorporated a hat into my daily commute (I really like the Prequel UPV hat right now). Next step… possibly gloves? “Wearing UPF gloves when driving would be a great habit to develop,” says Dr. Kim. “Our hands constantly get sun damaged while driving, and this is an easy, quick habit to adopt.”