If you plan to use extensions for your mini twists you’ll need to consider what type of extensions you want and if your hair is a good fit for extensions. “If you’re someone with low-density hair [fewer strands per square inch], adding extensions will make the style heavier,” says Baton Rouge-based hairstylist Kelsey Edwards. According to the stylist, human hair is lighter than synthetic hair, so if you have low-density hair and want to add extensions, opting for human hair will give you more lightweight mini twists.
Another benefit of human hair over synthetic extensions for this style is the natural look. “With synthetic hair, the curl tends to drop and the twists lose their bounciness over time with the more styles you put your twists in,” says New Jersey-based hairstylist Tukia Allen. “Whereas human hair will maintain that curl.”
Now, you’re ready to twist.
Step 1: Separate your hair into four to six sections depending on how thick your hair is (you should be able to hold each section in one hand). Secure each section with scrunchies, leaving one loose.
Step 2: Within this loose section, grab a smaller segment about the width of a pencil. Use a pea-size amount of braiding gel to define the segment, making the part on your scalp appear crisper.
Step 3: Smooth a pea-size amount of twisting cream or gel along the entire small section. (Holdsworth recommends Camille Rose Naturals Almond Jai Twisting Butter because it provides a soft hold and defines curls.)
Step 4: Split this segment into two smaller pieces and begin twisting, wrapping one around the other, going clockwise. If you’re using extensions, this would be the time to add them. There are several techniques for adding extensions, including wrapping the extension starting at the root or adding the extensions further down after you’ve twisted a few inches of natural hair.
Step 5: Continue twisting down the length of the hair until you reach the end. Twirl the ends around your finger in the same way you would create a finger coil until your twist is secure. Repeat this process across your entire head, section by section.
How long do mini twists last?
Mini twists can last up to four weeks. After that, the twists can begin to mat and tangle, turning into locs of sorts, explains Jamila Powell, a Florida-based hairstylist and founder of hair-care brand, Naturally Drenched. If you’re planning on keeping your mini twists for a while, great news: You can wash them. Powell recommends adding two to three tablespoons of shampoo to an empty bottle that has a nozzle and diluting it with water. “Apply the mixture to the twists and scalp, gently massaging your scalp with your fingertips before rinsing thoroughly with water,” she says. Repeat the same steps for conditioner, then dry your hair with a microfiber towel, which absorbs more water and is gentler on the hair. You can also use a blow-dryer for speedy drying.